1 de Mayo 2011

May 1st has finally rolled around again, and here in Montevideo, its completely dead. Everything is closed for Labor Day - or as they call it here, el dia del trabajador. Thus, I know today will be a fairly lazy day of not doing too much, which is good cause outside its completely miserable - raining fairly heavy and the wind is blowing like crazy rattling the windows and shades.

Last night we headed out on the town for my birthday. We made our way to a few places, but kept moving until we landed at a bar named Burlesque. It had a nice atmosphere very reminiscent of the states, and for once, a great beer menu - which, as I have found, is a difficult thing to find in Latin American countries.


The crowd was fairly young like ourselves, and everyone was dressed up to head out on a saturday night.


Meli, Mari and I ordered some good food. This is the first Mexican food I have seen here in Uruguay. I ordered Enchiladas while the girls ordered Chivitos - a very very very typical Uruguayan sandwhich.


For the first time in many many months, I got to order a few non traditional South American beers. I had two half liters from a company named Otro Mundo based out of Argentina. I started with a Nut Brown Ale and finished with a Strong Red Ale. They were 120 pesos each ($6 USD) and were well worth the extra cash because they helped lift me out of the Budweiser type beer fog that predominates the area. I cant wait to return and try out a few more beers.

I didnt notice, but Mariana pointed out the fact that they used a pint glass as well. A pint glass is so normal to me I didnt quite notice, but here in Uruguay they dont use pint glasses like we do in the states. The typical beer glass here is a thick clear mug with a heavy handle.


The pint glass, the imported beer, and the atmosphere within the bar all helped lend a hand to remind me of good times. I love finding the similarities and dissimilaties between here and the states, and I love finding places like Burlesque that help blur the line. We had a good time and I appreciate Meli and Mari taking time to take me out and show me another slice of their city and culture.

Buenos Aires 04/26 - 04/28 2011

The view of downtown Buenos Aires from our hotel room.

Travis on the balcony with the Obelisk.

Travis in Palermo Soho and his standard Argentinian beer - Quilmes.

Travis drinking Quilmes and watching the FC Barcelona vs. Real Madrid game at a pub in Palermo Soho and I must say, Lionel Messi is the most incredible soccer player I have ever seen. Once again, he set the bar very high for other players who attempt to follow.

Mari and Meli in San Telmo enjoying Quilmes as well.

Mari and I enjoying a night out on the town.

Celebrating 36 years of Travis!

Tomorrow, April 30th, is my 36th birthday. So I thought I would take a moment to share some old pictures of myself taken long ago when I was young, vibrant, and full of hair.

Not quite sure what I am doing here.

Decorating christmas cookies.


Travis, my Grandma, and my brother Kyle. Long, long ago.


Travis and most likely, his first acoustic guitar (of many).


Travis and Joe, in California. We took a raodtrip to see a 3 day concert in Berkley when we were just little kids.


And finally, throughout all the years and jobs and haircuts and fashion disasters, I finally landed here and now. Happy Birthday to me. Cheers.

A sad day in Seattle

While I was in Buenos Aires, my brother wrote me an email detailing the fact that this wonderful painting by Deborah Faas was stolen.

He had commissioned Deborah to paint this masterpiece from a photo of two of his sons and while it was awaiting a frame in a nearby frameshop, some asshole broke in and stole it (along with other pieces of art). This wonderful painting will be sorely missed.

Buenos Aires Argentina

Mari and I just returned from spending a few days in Buenos Aires Argentina. Buenos Aires is fairly close to Montevideo, located on the western side of the Rio de la Plata , the river that seperates Uruguay and Argentina. We tagged along with Mari´s friend Meli whose family owns a store here in Montevideo named Muaa. Every month or two she heads over to Buenos Aires to pick out the upcoming season of clothing they´ll be selling in the store. Mari and I had no hesitation in tagging along when she asked if we´d like to come.

We left Montevideo on the morning of the 26th, catching a 2 hour bus headed west to Colonia del Sacremento. In Colonia del Sacremento we would be crossing the Rio de la Plata on a ferry, yet we were slightly afraid that I might need a Visa to cross over into Argentina, as they have adopted a reciprical fee process for United States citizens. This means, they have implemented a $140 visa fee for US citizens to reflect that we charge the same fee for incoming Argentinians when they want to enter the US. Its fair, but I wasnt too excited about paying it. We had read that it went into affect in the beginning of this year, but couldnt find any hard facts. We checked the websites of both the US embassy and the Argentina embassy here, but couldnt get any hard information. Looking online, there is a lot of speculation and statements, but none I could verify or reasonably assume were correct. Next, we visited the Argentinian embassy here and were quickly told that we didnt need to pre-apply for the visa, that you pay it upon entering the country. Thus, we crossed our fingers and headed for the boat. To our luck and amazement, I did not need a Visa to enter into Argentina. From what I have read, I think it only applies to citizens flying into the major airports and has not spread to land border crossings. Thus to clarify for anyone else searching the web for whether or not there is a Visa fee when entering Argentina - if you are entering from Montevideo by taking the Buquebus, there is no Visa fee. Although, my ticket was slightly more than my girlfriends as I was a foreigner, but the fee was only around $20 and was part of my Buquebus ticket fee, not an additional fee paid to the border crossing guards.

Buenos Aires was beautiful. We stayed right downtown next to the Obelisk, surrounded by towering buildings and blinking lights. The weather was gorgeous, warm and blue skies every day. The girls liked to shop, but we also managed to visit the Nacional Art Museum - Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes -, as well as walking around other neighborhoods such as Palermo Soho and San Telmo. While in Palermo Soho we ate at a Parrilla restaurant named La Cabrera on a recommendation from Meli. Since I dont eat much meat, I had a wonderful Tortilla. It was delicious, and I heard from the girls that the meats were spectacular. We also ate great pasta and pizza in and around town.

We stayed 3 days and 2 nights, and I have to admit that I love that city. Mari and I visited for a week or so 2 years ago, but it didnt strike me then like it did this time. It could be that I am more accustomed to the look and feel of South American cities than I was before, or I perhaps I just really miss the grit and feel of a major downtown intersection. MOst likely its a mixture of both. But I now have a little fantasies running through my head of living in Buenos Aires some day.

Meli was spectacular. She is a really great person, and I can see why Mariana loves her so much. She is an incredibly giving and caring person. She is fun, funny, easy going, and quite lovable. Mari and her have been friends since basically forever, and they look and act like life long friends, laughing and joking and talking endlessly. I want to thank Meli for inviting me to Bs. As. and showing me such a good time.

I drank a lot of Quilmes while I was there, once again rated with a low C grade on the beer advocate. I dont know what the deal is with the beers in Central and South America, but they really love that light golden pale beer. But, I have to admit I did have a wonderful Quilmes Bock, dark and brown and delicious. I also bought a bottle of whisky Anejo named Breeders Choice. Delicious and tasty, and makes a perfect whiskola (Whisky + Cola).

Asado 04-23-2011

On saturday Mariana and I were invited by our friends Patricia and Nicolás to come for asado at Patricias fathers vacation house out in the fields of Minas. We took off from Piriapolis and headed to Minas for the day.

Patricia´s father, Raúl, has a beautiful place located far off the country road that offers plenty of fresh air, open space, and sunshine. He has created a large, exquisite house that perfect blurs the lines between modern and antique.

He has plenty of lush green land where he raises horses, cows, and sheep.

Set apart from the house, just off to the side, is an outdoor parrilla, or grill, perfect for get togethers with friends and family.

Inside the small structure, you can see the parilla on the left, with plenty of wood (leña) below for the fire. In the center there was a large table with plenty of chairs for relaxation and hanging out. The perfect way to enjoy the day.

In the states, we use barbeques. But to me, the parrilla is more dynamic and creative cooking design. Its composed of two components. The first component is on the left which houses the wood for the fire and coals. As the wood burns and breaks down, the coals fall through the metal rack to the area below. These red hot coals are then shifted over to right side, beneath the second component, the rack, holding the meats and veggies. The coals sit below this rack where the meat can enjoy a slow and thorough cook.

Uruguayans know that we american use charcoal, or even worse, gas in our barbeques. They sorta scoff as us, knowing that in this manner the taste of the meat is altered in an undesirable flavor. The parrilla is central to Uruguayan life. It plays a major role in families and holidays, and its a quite common sight to see across the country.

Our asado was composed of several types of meat. The grill holds two types of chorizo (sausage), sweet morzilla (spanish black pudding i.e. blood) , pulpon (flank steak), tiras de asado (short ribs), molleja (salivary gland), moron rolleno (red pepper with egg and cheese inside), y queso provolone (melted provolone cheese).

I also watched as Nicolás cut onion, garlic, and mushrooms - placed them in a pan with oil and set the pan atop the coals to sauteé the mixture to perfection. We then spread this mixture on bread and enjoyed the delicious flavors.

The asado process is not fast. It takes a while to slow cook, and the food comes out in a piece meal fashion. Nicolás would take out one part, cut it up on a cutting board, then this circulates through where everyone can enjoy a little morsel. And this repeats for hours.

In the states, everyone grabs a plate, and eats seperately. Here, it seems to be a more communal feel, picking a grabbing little bites as they come available.

Nicolás is great. We have enjoyed a few soccer matches together, and he never ceases to amaze me. He is a terrific person, husband and father. This day, he was also the Asador, basically the chef, or head BBQ master. Its not an easy position, as you sit near the grill and monitor the foods all day. But he plays the role well and provided for the masses in a generous manner.

There was plenty of beer, whiskey, coke and food to go around. Thanks to Patricia and Nicolás for inviting us, and thanks to Raúl for owning such a spectacular plot of land where he can invite his friends and family.

24 de Abril 2011

Well, its now sunday night of the 24th. As I am writing this, Ruy is in the next room talking on the phone with a radio station. He is passionate about horse racing. He knows nearly everything about the sport, including the history as well as the family lineage of nearly every horse from the past to the present. He writes a weekly column for a local magazine, he forecasts winners for upcoming races, and like now, he does a weekly spot on a local radio show where he summerizes the events of the weekend and advises on the races still to come. Although I cant understand him when he speaks on the phone, he sounds fluent, passionate, and well versed as a sportscaster.

Mari and I just returned home yesterday after taking a few days off to head to Piriapolis, where Lucy and Ruy have a summer home, to enjoy La Semana de Turismo, or Tourism Week. Here, as in Argentina, there is a week long vacation where nearly everyone and their mother gets the week off. The people in Montevideo pack up and clear out, heading towards the countries interior or the beaches lining the Atlantic Coastline. There are attractions and festivities all over the country. For example, in the department of Paysandu there is a festival known as Semana de la Cerveza, or Beer Week, where they host a large festival drawing nearly 200,000 people who enjoy beer and music. In the department of Colonia they host a cheese festival known as Cata Nacional del Queso where you can taste all the artisinal cheeses of the area. There is a steam engine train that you can ride to the train museum and learn about the history of who brought the trains and tracks to Uruguay. Although that all sounded amazing, especially the beer festival, we decided to visit Mari´s parents at their summer house in Piriapolis.

Piriapolis is roughly 100 kilometers east of Montevideo, towards the Atlantic Coast. Its small, yet bustling little town known for its accomodating beaches and smalltown feel. Their house is located about 5 kilometers outside the central plaza of downtown of Piriapolis, yet adequately located only 4 or 5 blocks from the beach. The town was chock full of tourists, but offered a beautiful getaway none-the-less. Although summer has come and gone here, the coming fall still offers some warm sunny days.

We stopped by an abandoned night club (The Moonlight Discotech) located a few kilometers down the beach outside Piriapolis. Someone had discarded all the couches on the back porch and I was able to snap this pic of Mari with a backdrop of the countries beautiful green interior.

A day at the beach.

A slice of Uruguay outside the Metropolitan City.

The days were warm and sunny and bright and beautiful. But the nights were filled with electrical storms that raged over the ocean and brought showers throughout the night.

We ate good food, enjoyed a pleasant and tranquil easter weekend, and took in a bit of sun and beach.