Buenos Aires 04/26 - 04/28 2011

The view of downtown Buenos Aires from our hotel room.

Travis on the balcony with the Obelisk.

Travis in Palermo Soho and his standard Argentinian beer - Quilmes.

Travis drinking Quilmes and watching the FC Barcelona vs. Real Madrid game at a pub in Palermo Soho and I must say, Lionel Messi is the most incredible soccer player I have ever seen. Once again, he set the bar very high for other players who attempt to follow.

Mari and Meli in San Telmo enjoying Quilmes as well.

Mari and I enjoying a night out on the town.

Celebrating 36 years of Travis!

Tomorrow, April 30th, is my 36th birthday. So I thought I would take a moment to share some old pictures of myself taken long ago when I was young, vibrant, and full of hair.

Not quite sure what I am doing here.

Decorating christmas cookies.


Travis, my Grandma, and my brother Kyle. Long, long ago.


Travis and most likely, his first acoustic guitar (of many).


Travis and Joe, in California. We took a raodtrip to see a 3 day concert in Berkley when we were just little kids.


And finally, throughout all the years and jobs and haircuts and fashion disasters, I finally landed here and now. Happy Birthday to me. Cheers.

A sad day in Seattle

While I was in Buenos Aires, my brother wrote me an email detailing the fact that this wonderful painting by Deborah Faas was stolen.

He had commissioned Deborah to paint this masterpiece from a photo of two of his sons and while it was awaiting a frame in a nearby frameshop, some asshole broke in and stole it (along with other pieces of art). This wonderful painting will be sorely missed.

Buenos Aires Argentina

Mari and I just returned from spending a few days in Buenos Aires Argentina. Buenos Aires is fairly close to Montevideo, located on the western side of the Rio de la Plata , the river that seperates Uruguay and Argentina. We tagged along with Mari´s friend Meli whose family owns a store here in Montevideo named Muaa. Every month or two she heads over to Buenos Aires to pick out the upcoming season of clothing they´ll be selling in the store. Mari and I had no hesitation in tagging along when she asked if we´d like to come.

We left Montevideo on the morning of the 26th, catching a 2 hour bus headed west to Colonia del Sacremento. In Colonia del Sacremento we would be crossing the Rio de la Plata on a ferry, yet we were slightly afraid that I might need a Visa to cross over into Argentina, as they have adopted a reciprical fee process for United States citizens. This means, they have implemented a $140 visa fee for US citizens to reflect that we charge the same fee for incoming Argentinians when they want to enter the US. Its fair, but I wasnt too excited about paying it. We had read that it went into affect in the beginning of this year, but couldnt find any hard facts. We checked the websites of both the US embassy and the Argentina embassy here, but couldnt get any hard information. Looking online, there is a lot of speculation and statements, but none I could verify or reasonably assume were correct. Next, we visited the Argentinian embassy here and were quickly told that we didnt need to pre-apply for the visa, that you pay it upon entering the country. Thus, we crossed our fingers and headed for the boat. To our luck and amazement, I did not need a Visa to enter into Argentina. From what I have read, I think it only applies to citizens flying into the major airports and has not spread to land border crossings. Thus to clarify for anyone else searching the web for whether or not there is a Visa fee when entering Argentina - if you are entering from Montevideo by taking the Buquebus, there is no Visa fee. Although, my ticket was slightly more than my girlfriends as I was a foreigner, but the fee was only around $20 and was part of my Buquebus ticket fee, not an additional fee paid to the border crossing guards.

Buenos Aires was beautiful. We stayed right downtown next to the Obelisk, surrounded by towering buildings and blinking lights. The weather was gorgeous, warm and blue skies every day. The girls liked to shop, but we also managed to visit the Nacional Art Museum - Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes -, as well as walking around other neighborhoods such as Palermo Soho and San Telmo. While in Palermo Soho we ate at a Parrilla restaurant named La Cabrera on a recommendation from Meli. Since I dont eat much meat, I had a wonderful Tortilla. It was delicious, and I heard from the girls that the meats were spectacular. We also ate great pasta and pizza in and around town.

We stayed 3 days and 2 nights, and I have to admit that I love that city. Mari and I visited for a week or so 2 years ago, but it didnt strike me then like it did this time. It could be that I am more accustomed to the look and feel of South American cities than I was before, or I perhaps I just really miss the grit and feel of a major downtown intersection. MOst likely its a mixture of both. But I now have a little fantasies running through my head of living in Buenos Aires some day.

Meli was spectacular. She is a really great person, and I can see why Mariana loves her so much. She is an incredibly giving and caring person. She is fun, funny, easy going, and quite lovable. Mari and her have been friends since basically forever, and they look and act like life long friends, laughing and joking and talking endlessly. I want to thank Meli for inviting me to Bs. As. and showing me such a good time.

I drank a lot of Quilmes while I was there, once again rated with a low C grade on the beer advocate. I dont know what the deal is with the beers in Central and South America, but they really love that light golden pale beer. But, I have to admit I did have a wonderful Quilmes Bock, dark and brown and delicious. I also bought a bottle of whisky Anejo named Breeders Choice. Delicious and tasty, and makes a perfect whiskola (Whisky + Cola).

Asado 04-23-2011

On saturday Mariana and I were invited by our friends Patricia and Nicolás to come for asado at Patricias fathers vacation house out in the fields of Minas. We took off from Piriapolis and headed to Minas for the day.

Patricia´s father, Raúl, has a beautiful place located far off the country road that offers plenty of fresh air, open space, and sunshine. He has created a large, exquisite house that perfect blurs the lines between modern and antique.

He has plenty of lush green land where he raises horses, cows, and sheep.

Set apart from the house, just off to the side, is an outdoor parrilla, or grill, perfect for get togethers with friends and family.

Inside the small structure, you can see the parilla on the left, with plenty of wood (leña) below for the fire. In the center there was a large table with plenty of chairs for relaxation and hanging out. The perfect way to enjoy the day.

In the states, we use barbeques. But to me, the parrilla is more dynamic and creative cooking design. Its composed of two components. The first component is on the left which houses the wood for the fire and coals. As the wood burns and breaks down, the coals fall through the metal rack to the area below. These red hot coals are then shifted over to right side, beneath the second component, the rack, holding the meats and veggies. The coals sit below this rack where the meat can enjoy a slow and thorough cook.

Uruguayans know that we american use charcoal, or even worse, gas in our barbeques. They sorta scoff as us, knowing that in this manner the taste of the meat is altered in an undesirable flavor. The parrilla is central to Uruguayan life. It plays a major role in families and holidays, and its a quite common sight to see across the country.

Our asado was composed of several types of meat. The grill holds two types of chorizo (sausage), sweet morzilla (spanish black pudding i.e. blood) , pulpon (flank steak), tiras de asado (short ribs), molleja (salivary gland), moron rolleno (red pepper with egg and cheese inside), y queso provolone (melted provolone cheese).

I also watched as Nicolás cut onion, garlic, and mushrooms - placed them in a pan with oil and set the pan atop the coals to sauteé the mixture to perfection. We then spread this mixture on bread and enjoyed the delicious flavors.

The asado process is not fast. It takes a while to slow cook, and the food comes out in a piece meal fashion. Nicolás would take out one part, cut it up on a cutting board, then this circulates through where everyone can enjoy a little morsel. And this repeats for hours.

In the states, everyone grabs a plate, and eats seperately. Here, it seems to be a more communal feel, picking a grabbing little bites as they come available.

Nicolás is great. We have enjoyed a few soccer matches together, and he never ceases to amaze me. He is a terrific person, husband and father. This day, he was also the Asador, basically the chef, or head BBQ master. Its not an easy position, as you sit near the grill and monitor the foods all day. But he plays the role well and provided for the masses in a generous manner.

There was plenty of beer, whiskey, coke and food to go around. Thanks to Patricia and Nicolás for inviting us, and thanks to Raúl for owning such a spectacular plot of land where he can invite his friends and family.

24 de Abril 2011

Well, its now sunday night of the 24th. As I am writing this, Ruy is in the next room talking on the phone with a radio station. He is passionate about horse racing. He knows nearly everything about the sport, including the history as well as the family lineage of nearly every horse from the past to the present. He writes a weekly column for a local magazine, he forecasts winners for upcoming races, and like now, he does a weekly spot on a local radio show where he summerizes the events of the weekend and advises on the races still to come. Although I cant understand him when he speaks on the phone, he sounds fluent, passionate, and well versed as a sportscaster.

Mari and I just returned home yesterday after taking a few days off to head to Piriapolis, where Lucy and Ruy have a summer home, to enjoy La Semana de Turismo, or Tourism Week. Here, as in Argentina, there is a week long vacation where nearly everyone and their mother gets the week off. The people in Montevideo pack up and clear out, heading towards the countries interior or the beaches lining the Atlantic Coastline. There are attractions and festivities all over the country. For example, in the department of Paysandu there is a festival known as Semana de la Cerveza, or Beer Week, where they host a large festival drawing nearly 200,000 people who enjoy beer and music. In the department of Colonia they host a cheese festival known as Cata Nacional del Queso where you can taste all the artisinal cheeses of the area. There is a steam engine train that you can ride to the train museum and learn about the history of who brought the trains and tracks to Uruguay. Although that all sounded amazing, especially the beer festival, we decided to visit Mari´s parents at their summer house in Piriapolis.

Piriapolis is roughly 100 kilometers east of Montevideo, towards the Atlantic Coast. Its small, yet bustling little town known for its accomodating beaches and smalltown feel. Their house is located about 5 kilometers outside the central plaza of downtown of Piriapolis, yet adequately located only 4 or 5 blocks from the beach. The town was chock full of tourists, but offered a beautiful getaway none-the-less. Although summer has come and gone here, the coming fall still offers some warm sunny days.

We stopped by an abandoned night club (The Moonlight Discotech) located a few kilometers down the beach outside Piriapolis. Someone had discarded all the couches on the back porch and I was able to snap this pic of Mari with a backdrop of the countries beautiful green interior.

A day at the beach.

A slice of Uruguay outside the Metropolitan City.

The days were warm and sunny and bright and beautiful. But the nights were filled with electrical storms that raged over the ocean and brought showers throughout the night.

We ate good food, enjoyed a pleasant and tranquil easter weekend, and took in a bit of sun and beach.

Nacional Soccer game 04-07-2011

On the night of the 7th I went to Estado Centenario, the stadium here in Uruguay built for the very first World Cup (that Uruguay won!) to see a match between a local Uruguayan team called Nacional and a Brazilian team called Fluminense. I went with Nicolás, the husband of one of Mari´s friends for this fun filled night. He was very excited to be the first to take me to Estadio Centanario to see a Nacional game. Right now the Copa Libertadores is in full session. Stealing from Wikipedia, it says that this tournement "is the most prestigious club competition in South America football and one of the most watched events in the world, broadcast in 135 nations world wide." Even though the stadium is 82 years old, it is in relatively good shape. We sat in the Amsterdam section, behind the goal post, and had a wonderful view of the field. Nicolás took this photo from his phone. Here, the soccer fans are trained in the arts of old school tradition. Your soccer team isnt a choice, its a lifestyle. Fans here dont mess around. Most likely you were born into soccer family. I on the other hand, am a guest in house with ties to Nacional. Yet, Mari´s best friends family is in allegiance with Peñarol, the other major local team. Heading anywhere in the city, you can see the shirts, flags, stickers, emblems, and the fans of some team nearly everywhere, every single day of the week. They dont mess around here, and its a question thats bound to be asked of you at some point in your travels. What team do you follow? Here is a shot of the fans going wild after Nacional scored a goal, eventually winning the match 2 - 0. I know soccer isnt quite that big back home, but here there are games on the television every day. Be it the Uruguayan league, the Argentina League, the Brazilian League, the European League, the German League, or the Portuguese League (and perhaps more). We have even been following the Uruguayan Sub 17 league (kids below the age of 17). The tournement is taking place in Ecuador, and we have been watching every single game. These youngsters just qualified with a win over Columbia two nights ago, winning 3 - 2. Now, in contrast, I can count on one hand the amount of people that I know that watch the National US mens soccer team. Yet, I have never heard of anyone, ever, including myself, discussing how the US Sub 17 team is doing in their bracket. I cant imagine that anyone has even heard of this team in the US, much less watches them, and yet, I am fairly certain that they exist are are playing games. Nevertheless -here, the Sub 17 games are broadcast and celebrated. I like it. I often get the feeling that Uruguay is like the skinny little kid on the block, fighting for his place amongst the bigger, brasher bullies that think they own the street. Its nice to see a sport taken to the societal extreme. Nicolás was great, and I had a lot of fun with him. He went to school for medicine and is now a doctor. He is currently working while also attending school 2 days a week for his post grad. He is married with a beautiful young daughter (14 months) and has another bun in the oven on the way. He is warm and friendly, and seems to look after me quite well. I look forward to getting to know him much better in the near future.

Lightning Storm - 04/04/2011

I have seen my first true Uruguayan storm. It started once it was dark, the rain was falling and the wind was blowing. Then all of a sudden, it started raining really hard, and the sky was filled with flashes of light. I have seen lightning before, but in the Seattle area it seems quite rare and comes in small bursts. Here, it maintained for hours. It was pretty cool to see. I sat by the window watching the rain pour down, changing from moderate rain to an all out assualt that turned the small parking lot behind the condos into a catch basin, sending the water towards the thin driveway to create a small yet rushing river. All the while, the wind would hurl itself at the buildings, bouncng off and swirling the rain to create intricate flows of rain filled air that wound around the tall brick buildings illuminated by the small orange sodium lights mounted below. And during this torrent of wind and rain, the lightning bursts kept flashing, darting in and out of the night sky, ricocheting the light spectrum off the clouds to illuminate the entire night sky for a fraction of a second. I wish I wasnt stuck indoors to stay dry when I shot this video, I could have got some better angles. Hopefully this video can help illustrate my point.

Its getting a little cold here. I typically run to and from the gym, and I noticed both last night and tonight, theres a bit of a chill in the air. Not too bad with a jog, but I definately could have used a jacket if I was gonna walk home.

I sent out resumes, both here and in the states, to see what kinda jobs might be out there for a young whipper snapper like myself. My first reply came from this side. The firm is asking for an engineering student who wants to work flexible hours. Sounds about what I could do with my spanish level as it is. We´ll see, they said they would contact me this week. Havent heard anything yet.

I am nearing the end of my 8th grade Costa Rican Social Studies book that I bought in Costa Rica and have been reading ever since. Its roughly 200 pages, and is filled with all kinds of really interesting stuff. It addresses issues in chapters, such as natural disasters. Then, there are sub chapters that give all sorts of information and statistics on floods, earthquakes, landslides, hurricanes, and more. It talks about how they start, where they come from, and also gives real life examples that have happened in the last 10 years. Another interesting chapter was about environmental problems, addressing the ozone hole, oil spills, landfills, and recycling. Its all really interesting and I dont think they were teaching this kind of progressive knowlege back when I was in 8th grade. Congratulations Costa Rica on teaching good stuff to the kids.

Currently I am reading about the horrors of how the spanish invaded South America, stealing all the wealth, killing all the people, creating a political heirarchy from the King and Queen all the way down to slaves, stole the land, forced labor, and much much more. But... it is interesting and important to know this type of information.

I am a bit of a recluse here in Uruguay, with no friends and nothing to do. But tomorrow I have plans to head to a local soccer game with the husband of one of Mari´s friends - Nicolás. He is very sweet and I am excited to get out and do some boy stuff and have boy time with someone interesting. His english is maybe a slight bit better than my spanish, but we can communicate quite well between our spanglish to make all the ends meet. Congrats to me and my future first friend.